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The locations chosen provide a spectacular backdrop for a procession of garments that come together to form a défilé, echoing the history of the House and its desire to seek out original collaborations inspired by their native territories. Overall, Dior is ramping up its schedule of physical displays, with plans to show its pre-fall 2022 women’s collection in Seoul on April 30, and to hold its first runway show for the men’s spring line, which is also a pre-collection, in Los Angeles on May 19. This will be followed by summer men’s ready-to-wear collection in Paris on June 24, and the fall haute couture collection in early July. Maria Grazia Chiuri will be presenting the Dior women’s cruise 2023 collection on 16 June at the Plaza de España in Seville. Located in the southern region of Spain, the venue is an accurate reflection of the maison’s penchant for both the grandiose and historically spectacular.
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Chiuri will continue her tradition of collaborating with local craftspeople on the annual collection, which has the potential to significantly boost tourism revenues in its destination. Last year the house rolled out a series of videos about the Greek archeological sites that inspired her designs. A look comprising of tailored trousers fit with suspenders, a white tank and embroidered poncho opened the show, transitioning into a harmonious lineup of beautifully crafted and voluminous lace and tulle work – two materials synonymous with the House.
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Chiuri used the annual cruise collection as a platform for showcasing local talent, drawing on the huge pool of workshops involved in maintaining Seville’s ornate church altars and religious statues. There was an erotic charge to black riding pants worn with a cobwebby knit top and lace-effect leather opera gloves, while chaps, in openwork leather or Dior Oblique logo canvas, added a playful touch. For the 2023 Dior cruise collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri collaborated with Javier Menacho Guisado to reinvent the Dior Saddle bag using special leather embroidery methods.
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Days before the show, Chiuri revealed on Instagram that the 110-strong collection is inspired by Carmen Amaya (otherwise known as 'La Capitana'), a pioneer and prolific figure within the flamenco community who was defiant in rejecting style rules and the rigidity of gendered dressing. In this intense atmosphere, depicted in the chiaroscuro of some of Goya’s paintings and through the words of Federico García Lorca, a creative process was born, melding fascination, homage, interpretation and restitution. Among other cruise shows, Chanel plans to present its 2025 line in the port city of Marseille on May 2. Louis Vuitton has scheduled its cruise show in Barcelona on May 23, and Dior has revealed its show in Scotland will take place on June 3.
Afterwards, she continued her momentum via the Dior Talks podcasts which centred around issues of female emancipation and art. Elle Macpherson came with her son Cy Busson, a budding model who is rumored to be walking in the Dior men’s show in Paris on June 24. “I love Kim Jones, that’s all I’m saying,” Busson demurred, referring to Dior’s artistic director of menswear. For Maria Grazia Chiuri, the Dior cruise 2023 collection is a journey of discovery and reflection.
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The emblematic Manila shawls, which took three generations of women to produce, tells all the stories and journeys of the communities that created and wore it, allowing for the multiple voices of these nomadic objects to share their truths through the silhouettes. At the intersection of these encounters is an exuberant display of traditional Andalusian savoir-faire. Intrigued by the many depictions of femininity throughout history, the creative director's moodboard was littered with images of inspiring figures who embodied her vision, from Jackie Kennedy and the Duchess of Alba in riding gear, to the La Madonna Della Macarena. Chiuri unveiled the maison’s stand with feminism during the Dior spring/summer 2017 showing through the now definitive “We should all be feminists” slogan emblazoned on her line of ready-to-wear T-shirts.
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Dior’s creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri ensured its Cruise 2023 show was a dramatic celebration of multi-faceted Spanish femininity, tradition, and community. The evening show, held at twilight in Seville, Spain in the legendary Plaza de España on Thursday, opened with a hypnotic performance by flamenco dancers, soundtracked by violins, and accompanied by 60 dancers in voluminous red dresses. She chose to center the collection around the legendary flamenco dancer La Capitana, the name given to Carmen Amaya.
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Short jackets, high-waisted pants and wide-brimmed hats worn on an angle throughout the show were an homage to the Duchess of Alba, a legendary character who rode horses with Jackie Kennedy. Elsewhere, the emblematic Manila shawl retells the stories and journeys of the communities that created and wore it; and of course, Dior's iconic Bar Jacket sees its own iteration, in black velvet embroidered with various gold threads. Directed by Alba Sotorra, the documentary begins with Chirui's investigation of Seville, which led to a singular inspiration in the form of famed flamenco dancer Carmen Amaya better known as La Capitana.
Sotorra uses archival footage of Amaya and Seville's other female flamenco dancers to highlight the energy Chiuri wanted to imbue her collection with. To Chiuri, La Capitana represented the essence of Flamenco with her freedom to dance that was unconventional and did not submit to any regulation. An artist with singular, revolutionary movements, she was the first female dancer in her field to wear men’s clothing, symbolizing power and fragility through her art. Paralleling these inspirations, the looks evoke, for example, the Duchess of Alba, a legendary character, horseback riding with Jackie Kennedy. Held at the entrance of the grand Plaza de España, the show began in the most suitable way, with a sea of dancers clad in red dresses moving through the space to the sound of traditional Spanish music played live by an orchestra. As we learnt in the teaser video shared by the House late yesterday afternoon, Chiuri found inspiration in the work of plastic artist Maria Angeles Vila Tortosa.
Always inspired by women who bravely challenge societal expectations, Amaya was the perfect muse for Chiuri thanks to her unconventional career choices. Now dubbed as one of the greatest flamenco dancers to have lived, Amaya was known for not only being the first female flamenco dancer to perform in men's clothing but also master footwork previously reserved for male roles. In her highwaisted trousers and slicked back hair, the gender-bending pioneer captivated audiences with her powerful performances.
Chiuri was clearly in her element with the show in Spain, which completes a Mediterranean trilogy, after cruise events in Greece in 2021 and Italy in 2020. The flamenco performers felt it too, swarming around her in an explosion of spontaneous dancing and singing after the show. “They are engaged in a nice battle with Madrid to be the second most visited city in Spain after Barcelona, and I think that we are going to give them a big hand, therefore we have been welcomed by the mayor and by the local authorities of Andalusia in a majestic way,” he added. “She’s like the queen, and she’s dressed like a queen,” Chiuri said, noting that the statues are prepared by special attendants in a dedicated room of the church. Chiuri, who has made full-skirted silhouettes a signature of her tenure at Dior, riffed on the theme with belted midi styles, such as a rose-red skirt tufted with fabric whorls, and huge tiered floor-sweepers.
This book dazzles with its limited-edition metallic cover, a nod to Charli's underground club girl roots. To commemorate the drop, Vogue Singapore joins forces with local jewellery brand Ask & Embla to unveil a pair of earrings crafted with precision. Dubbed the Paradox Earrings, this edgy-meets-versatile piece can be worn asymmetrically or huggie-style.
Built for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929, it mixes elements of the Baroque Revival, Renaissance Revival and Moorish Revival styles of Spanish architecture. Last year, Gucci staged its cruise 2024 show at the Gyeongbokgung Palace in Seoul on May 16, marking the brand’s 25 years in the country. That collection was designed by an in-house team, following the exit of the previous creative director Alessandro Michele in November 2022. Gucci’s connection to London runs deep, as the brand’s history is linked to founder Guccio Gucci, who in 1897 was a luggage porter and lift boy at London hotel The Savoy. Observing the guests’ luggage, he was inspired to start creating his own line of luxury suitcases and bags, founding his namesake house in Florence in 1921 and setting up the first Gucci store in the Italian city’s Via della Vigna Nuova.
Elsewhere, the abundance of embroidery that adorns the venerated Madonna della Macarena’s gowns takes on the role of a sacred ritual in a choreography that suspends the body into an iconic image. The embroidery technique it displays came from China, with the shawls imported to Seville in the seventeenth century. It has become one of the most emblematic Spanish accessories, notably worn by the women painted by Goya and Velázquez. From Seville, it spread to Latin America, demonstrating how artisanship is a global language with the power to connect far-away cultures and places. The atelier has developed a series of traditionally embroidered shawls with quintessential Dior details. This will be creative director Sabato De Sarno’s first cruise collection, after taking the helm of the luxury brand in January last year.
She tempered her sultry off-the-shoulder blouses and barely-there lace tops with sharp suits, inspired by old images of Jackie Kennedy riding with the Duchess of Alba at the Feria de Abril in Seville. The designer tapped artist María Ángeles Vila Tortosa to create four posters, similar to those used to announce flamenco shows, depicting Amaya in different poses. The pastel-toned art works were used as prints on items including a cape-sleeved jacket and a series of voluminous bustier gowns. On June 16th, Dior unveiled their latest Dior 2023 Cruise Collection at the infamous Plaza De España in the heart of Seville, Spain. This Dior cruise event is thus transformed by Maria Grazia Chiuri into a meeting of emotions and intentions, conveying an idea of fashion that is both of the everyday and of the extraordinary, wherein the creations celebrate the multiplicity of the visions of femininity.
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